This time, we would like to introduce the core specifications of our custom order factory, “Gents,” for the discerning tailors. For tailors who take pride in their work, core specifications can be a determining factor in choosing a factory. It is also a crucial element in tailoring suits according to each tailor’s unique preferences, contributing to the realization of the ideal suit based on individual tastes. The compatibility with the factory becomes a significant point in this regard.

The custom order factory, Gents, facilitated by our company, is one of the leading factories in Japan. Its quality is highly trusted by tailors. As a factory, we aim to deliver solid products, and as a basic specification, we use full canvas interlining along with fusible interlining.

接着芯の役割は、生地を固定して安定した製品を作ることです。これにより、特に生地が湿気によりわずかに伸縮する傾向があることを考慮すると、製品の安定性が確保されます。湿度の高い日本では、テーラーの中には融着が不可欠と考える人もいます。さらに、生地は年々繊細になってきており、縫製が難しくなってきています。したがって、溶断は安定した製品づくりに貢献します。

UG Specification

①-1 UG Specification

Full canvas interlining + Fusible interlining on front and facing

This is the basic specification at Gents. With full canvas interlining from lapel to hem, it allows for stable sewing, resulting in a high-quality finished product.

①-2 UG Specification without Fusible

Full canvas interlining without fusible.

If emphasis on softness is desired, this specification is recommended. However, it’s important to note that the connection with the canvas interlining is less strong without fusing, which may lead to wrinkles and sagging with humidity.

①-3 UG Specification with Fusible + Chest reinforcement

Full canvas interlining + Felt on the chest + Fusible interlining on front and facing

For those who want to reinforce the chest area further beyond the standard specification. This was common in the past when individuals frequently carried items like wallets in the inner chest pocket.

①-4 UG Specification with Fusible (Chest reinforcement without canvas interlining)

No canvas interlining + Fusible interlining on front and facing + Felt for chest reinforcement.

For those who want a casual look without canvas interlining but desire a draped chest, this specification is suitable.

②FS Specification

Lapel-less half canvas interlining + Fusible interlining on front and facing

For fabrics like cotton, linen, and other special materials where stitching the lapel is challenging or visible stitching marks are undesirable, the factory automatically switches to FS specification.

Some customers choose this specification when they want a lighter finish. Since there is no lapel, and it doesn’t extend to the hem of the front, it reduces weight. However, the absence of canvas interlining in the lapel area may result in a loss of collar roll.

③NC Specification

Chest pad + Fusible interlining on front and facing

This specification is suitable for summer garments or when a lightweight and casual finish is desired. It is commonly used for cotton or linen jackets.

While there is no canvas interlining, there is a chest pad from the shoulder to chest area, maintaining the basic shape around the shoulders.

We hope this provides a brief yet informative introduction to core specifications. Please feel free to use this as a reference.

By selecting the appropriate specification based on the fabric and considering the desired wearing comfort, customers can choose specifications tailored to their preferences. We also provide optimal color matching with the outer fabric, including beige, black, and white, at the factory.

Many tailors who prefer the rounded Italian jacket style often request no fusible interlining. We understand such requests and will accommodate them accordingly.

Our company serves as a point of contact for a wide range of consultations related to custom suits. Please feel free to contact us with any inquiries.

Contact Us

For more information on sewing suits, please contact us.https://www.excy-global.com/blog/sewing-dept/contact/